A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing a quick and efficient yet smooth decent. Of course this means that the friction will slowly improve over time as these edges get worn through use. He is currently is living in a small village in the Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in the development sector. I found the GRIGRI+ to be smoother than the GRIGRI 2, especially when feeding out rope in the lead mode. Auto-locks even if brake end of rope Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. I did find, as with the Mega Jul, that belay gloves help significantly with lowering climbers, especially since the rope is practically rubbing over your thumb as you lower. I especially love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling and often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes. TR and Lead Belay in Manual Mode: When using the Giga Jul in the manual brake position to belay a lead climber it works much the same as any regular tube-style device. Luckily, Edelrid is making headway on this predicament with the Giga Jul: a device can be both assisted-braking or tubular braking. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. It couldn’t be easier. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. This makes it incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device. Top-Down, Direct Anchor Belay: When belaying a second up directly off an anchor with the Giga Jul, the rope seems to rub on the edges of the device even more than when belaying from below—even with skinny, sub-9mm single ropes. Belaying with it was fluid and did not hinder the climber at any point. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. Lightweight 2. Rappelling in brake-assisted mode, both for a Mega Jul and Giga Jul, is something I will never enjoy and do not recommend. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. It was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor I approached. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. It’s worth noting that when rappelling in the assisted braking mode friction cannot be increased by adding an extra carabiner. The lead mode was designed to feed rope out quicker to a leader. Posted by Parker Webb | Gear Feature, Journal. It’s less noticeable when belaying from below, but more on that in the belay performance section below. As with the other belay modes, half and twin ropes did not experience any additional drag issues, but of course they’re much thinner at 7.3 to 8.2mm instead of 8.7 to 9.5mm single ropes. It always took me about half a minute to figure out how to load it properly and teaching a high school mountaineering team how to do this was near impossible. The assisted braking thumb loop (the colored, covered section) gives you more control when you're lowering or rappelling. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. There isn’t a device that is proficient at all styles of belaying on the market yet, and no one wants to spend lots of money on multiple belay devices. Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. Three rappelling modes 4. Not an issue with thinner half and twin ropes though. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri , the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. Additionally, set up always lead to confusion wondering how the device is supposed to be attached to an anchor. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. Monte uses the combination of his guiding experience and civil engineering background to critically analyze equipment and apparel providing in-depth reviews on exhaustively tested gear. Rotate the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate closer to you again and it will be in assisted braking mode. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show. I wear out an ATC about every year, so this could be a very nice feature. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions. Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range. The GigaJul is a dramatic improvement on the MegaJul as a guide plate. It's nice to have the extra margin of safety on double rope belays when there is loose rock/ice that could strike the belayer. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up. The most versatile ever belay device. In this sense the Mega Jul is like a Grigri and great for belaying people working projects. * measured midway along slot as shown in photo. I do not recommend ever doing this, having done this with both devices. T he Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. Especially with fatter ropes on a free-hanging, 35-meter rappel, disengaging the brake assist is a struggle. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. Edelrid Mega Jul – Weight: 65 grams. It's a great choice for double rope systems--think of it as the alpine grigri. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what … Let’s discuss the Giga Jul, as it is initially a little complicated. Like the Mega Jul, feeding a sling through the release hole to lower a climber in guide’s mode is difficult, but that is a slight price to pay for not being disgruntled whenever belaying your follower. Edelrid has addressed this by designing the GigaJul to be a much slicker device. Because of the way the carabiner sits in a small cut-out of the side, the extra carabiner actually pulls the rope out further and reduces friction while defeating the assisted brake. The device will likely outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as an all-steel unit like the Mega Jul. But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. Passive assisted braking 3. See the rest of our 2016 Editors' Choice Award winners. Especially with the small size of the Mega Jul, loading the ropes into the device was a struggle. Use the versatile Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device for belaying lead climbers, belaying a second or third follower from the anchor, lowering top-rope climbers from the anchor, rappelling, or abseiling. Edelrid’s Mega Jul & Micro Jul When WeighMyRack visited the Edelrid booth at the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show the Germans excitedly asked us, “Have you heard of our Mega Jul belay device?” I responded, “You mean the belay device that essentially has all the same functions of a GriGri … Unique in that it offers an assisted belay mode with the flip of a switch, much like the Mammut Smart. Overall, however, the entire belaying process feels smoother with the Giga Jul, perhaps because of the larger size. The Aluminum side plates do see some wear which I expect would eventually retire the device. You can gamble on something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you already know. Thicker ropes seem to rub on the sidewalls of the device, adding friction, especially when the device is used in a top-down belay. Black Sheep Adventure Sports was provided with a test sample for review but of course this did not influence us in any way. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. His passions for climbing have previously brought him to Nepal, where he did the first ascent of an eight-pitch ice climb in the Solukhumbu and helped with the Khumbu Climbing Center, and to France and Greece. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites … The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Top reasons why people like Edelrid Mega Jul: 1. Quantity: Free shipping for this item Free store pickup Order online, get it at your local MEC. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I also had to find a thick carabiner for the Mega Jul and it will very easily scratch aluminium However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when it comes to rope diameter. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites down on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall. Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. I think this is due to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the side plates. The stated rope diameters that the Giga Jul uses are from 7.1 – 10mm – I’ve used it with my Edelrid Apus 7.9mm and my Edelrid Boa 9.8mm ropes and they have worked great (in case you are wondering about my over use on Edelrid ropes, they are one of the few rope manufacturers that have a blue sign certification on ropes – always a factor in purchasing choices). However, the same side-rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a single rope, making it a bit less smooth. Feeding slack with the Eddy is both better and worse than with the GriGri. Non-assisted brake mode for rappelling with the Mega Jul was confusing. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). It costs less and weighs less than a Grigi, and unlike that device it can be used with double ropes, ... Edelrid Giga Jul . The Edelrid Giga Jul is firmly on the thinner end of the spectrum by the ATC Alpine Guide, which is specifically designed for half and twin ropes. Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. One of the great things about the Giga Jul is that it’s quite intuitive and easy to use, not a bad option so long as you’re climbing on skinny lines. Now that we know how it works, let’s look into how well (or not) it works. I highly suggest solely rappelling with a backup instead, as it is much easier to tend to as you descend. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). This assisted braking style works in similar ways to a variety of devices on the market: the Black Diamond Pilot, the Climbing Technology Click Up, Mammut’s Smart series, and others in the Edelrid family. To achieve both styles of catching falls, the Giga Jul has a sliding plate in the middle of the device. The switch is simply moved to the “M” position and the device is rotated such that the black wire cover is situated behind the device next to the belayer. ... We’ve already reviewed the Edelrid Giga Jul here, but in summary, the Giga Jul can do just about everything. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. However, assisted braking devices have come a long way in recent years and are definitely worth considering the next time you replace your worn out ATC, Reverso or similar device. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of Edelrid’s Ohm Assisted Braking Resistor, A Look at Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot Belay Device, Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners, Climber Spotlight: Sabrina Chapman on Titan (5.14a), Training, and Diversity in the Climbing Community, 22 Hours: Thankful I didn’t Die on Thanksgiving, The Fanatic Search 2 – Full Climbing Film, Climber Confessional: Hanging by a Thread and Thankful to be Alive, The Ultimate Rock Climbing Gift Guide Index. The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. Whenever I belayed in guide’s mode with a Mega Jul, unless using ultra-skinny half ropes, I would yell expletives and get an unwanted shoulder workout. In Manual mode the Giga Jul rappels much the same as any tube style belay device and provides a smooth ride so long as it’s paired with a nice round carabiner. One demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the Mega Jul (120g vs 65g, respectively). The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. (The Plus has two modes: lead and top rope, which can be changed using a switch on the back of the device.) Edelrid says you can use 8.9mm single ropes or 7.9mm double ropes. Lastly, in auto-block or guide mode, the Mega Jul adds more friction to the pull than other plaquette devices, especially with fat ropes. To get a belay device that does it all in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul thoroughly worth considering. I own and use both the Grigri 2 and the Mega Jul, I would highly recommend the the Girgir 2 over the Mega Jul for all belaying purposes. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. The Mega Jul offers three rappelling modes. Fear Review: Can you trust your fear of falling? Edelrid Mega Jul: 65 g. Petzl Reverso 4: 79 g. Black Diamond ATC Guide: 88 g. Petzl GriGri 2: 170 g *Being steel, I expect this device to last much longer than its aluminum cousins. This means that when rappelling the Giga Jul has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying. Parker started climbing in high school through a program called the Junior Mountaineering Team. For its diminutive size, a few testers said it felt heavy in the hand, but at 3.7 ounces, it’s comparable to many double-slot tubers (and half the weight of a Grigri 2). TR and Lead Belay in Assisted Brake Mode: Flip the switch to the “A” position and rotate the device around and it’s in the assisted brake mode. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Obviously the ATC (and the Giga Jul) will win. The sides plates are constructed of lightweight aluminum that are attached to stainless steel braking grooves and slider. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. $30; edelrid.com. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. With a single rope the device feeds out rope fairly well but taking in slack is less smooth as the rope rubs on the bottom edge of the side plates increasing friction. This will stand out for those of you that are Mega Jul users. The Half and Twin ropes that I tested with the Giga Jul worked quite well though. I have tried three different carabiners and with no one it doesn't lock the rope. Have Ederlid Giga Jul and I'm bit doubt if it does what it suppose to. In brake-assisted belay mode, giving slack is much more efficient and fluid. While belaying and rappelling are definitely improved with the Giga Jul, the best change is with belaying in guide’s mode. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what … It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. A definite lose-lose! It took much longer than normal rappelling would. It really shines in the assisted brake mode though! In this day and age, choosing belay devices can be a bit of a head-scratcher. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. I have found that the Mega Jul tends to lock up to easily, and you have a far greater chance of getting rope burn. Assisted braking devices – excluding the Petzl GRIGRI and Wild Country Revo – work by creating a higher degree of friction than tubular devices through the carabiner, pinching the rope between the device. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. At a quick glance, it looks similar to a large version of Edelrid’s Mega Jul. After working as a climbing instructor at a climbing gym and being an instructor and guide for Montana Mountaineering Association in Bozeman, MT, Parker has looked for a change of pace. Pros: Intuitive and easy to use, very smooth assisted brake rappel, works great with half and twin ropes, Cons: Heavy, lots of friction with thicker ropes and top-down direct anchor belays. But worse because when you do pull too fast, the cam locks in place and won't let you feed anymore until you man… The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. In best case scenario it slips slowly. With all the different belay devices on the market it can be hard to decide on a particular one. Since the release of the gigajul, the grigri gets much less use, outside of single pitch sport cragging. Carabiners that I've tried: Edelrid HMS Strike, Mammut Crag HMS, Singing Rock Bora HMS. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). Billed as the most versatile belay device ever, the Giga Jul is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. The bottom edges have a slight bevel facilitating a smoother belay from the bottom. As in the manual brake mode the Giga Jul actually feeds rope fairly smoothly and quite easily. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. This device is super light and can accommodate two ropes and is multi-pitch enabled. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / top-down belay and even when rappelling. Of course this isn’t the only factor that determines the amount of friction developed by a given rope diameter but does provide some insight into which devices work better for thicker ropes and which for thinner ropes. The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. I measured the rope gap width for a selection of belay devices and have summarized them in the below table. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. This means that the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the heavy side. Of course the top-down belay or guide-mode can only be used in the Manual position but it has an assisted brake anyway. Plus, it’s made of stainless steel, which boosts durability into lifetime range. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. The Giga Jul utilizes a hybrid design combining steel and aluminum. What we like: We felt like this was the closest feel to an ATC and it looks it too. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427.